Siem Reap and the Holy City

We spent 6 nights in Siem Reap and could have easily stayed longer. A hotel or guesthouse with a swimming pool (which we had) is a prerequisite however.

For the uninitiated the main reason for coming to Siem Reap is to visit the Angkor Archaelogical Park. Angkor means Capital or Holy City. The park is vast and comprises  ruins of temples built, destroyed, rebuilt and added to between 800 and 1200AD.  The face to the left is a classic Bayon Head from the 12th century. At a guess this one was about 8 metres tall.

We spent 3 hot  and humid days exploring the temples with the aid our faithful and stoic Khmer tuk tuk driver Bud. We followed approximately a suggested 3 day itinerary visting Angkor Thom (which includes Bayon and others) and Angkor Wat the first day and finishing up on the third day tuk tuking 50kms up to Banteay Srey and Kbal Spean. Kbal Spean involved a 45 minute walk up a hill track to see carvings, 1000 lingas(Hindu) and Bhuddist images,  under water in a river. There were also 2 waterfalls to see. By the end of the walk my shirt resembled another waterfall. Sue only gently perspired of course. Bottled water never tasted so sweet....

For us three days was a Goldilocks amount of time for temple exploring. Not too long, not too short, just right.

Siem Reap has been a foreign tourist town for over 100 years and the park is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. This reflects in the experience. Whilst there is major development going on  and many large hotels, the park and how it is visited is managed very efficiently. The town too has a lot to offer. Whilst the  big star 5 hotels with their golf courses and spas have moved in develoment has been kept relatively low rise and the centre of town has retained some character. The town offers a lively night life with an abundance of bars, restaurants, bakeries, spas and massage...

If you haven't been,  put it on the bucket list.....

What, Watt, Wat ???

It is a little known fact that the 13th Century Scottish Laird and adventurer, Sir Iain Chickockaye, travelled widely in Asia, rowing many of the rivers including the Tonle Sap in Cambodia. Whilst there he converted to Buddhism and on his return to the Highlands of Scotland he built a 3 tower Wat in the style of Angkor Wat. Thereafter his descendants were known as the people of the Watte, and later as Watts and Watt. Unfortunately the Scottish Angkor Wat did not survive, being first badly damaged by roving Scottish Hindu warriors in the 14th century and then flattened by Calvinists in the 15th. The Calvinists were of the view that in matters of religion everything should be "a level playing field" (a term widely in use in 15th century Scotland and now enjoying something of  a revival). The Calvinists  declared that the Wat should become a  Blair ( the Scottish word for a plain or field).

Funny how history repeats.

Serendipity

Cloud 9  Bungalows, Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville to be exact. Pacific Island bure style bungalows. No phone, no hot water, no air con .... but free wifi internet access. Travelling has changed. Try and tell the young people today about Post Restante..... and they won't believe you! Booked the bungalows by mobile phone while on the bus on the way down. Almost feel sorry for the touting tuk tuk and moto drivers waiting at the bus station. It must be pretty hard to find someone these days who hasn't booked their accomodation in advance.

It was nice to get back to the ocean again. Cloud 9 was a good spot. German/Australian owned but with friendly, smart local staff who knew how to mix a fine cocktail. (Note to self for future: do not follow vodka cocktails with pastis, no matter how persuasive the barman is....).

We probably didn't see the  Serendipity/Occheuteal beach  area at its best given that it is the off season. With a few more tourists around no doubt it is a party town. As others have said before the area suffers from something of an identity crisis, with large resorts and casino hotels mixed in with backpacker accomodation, guesthouses and bungalows. The beach is lined with shacks selling food, drink  and massages, and offering shade and opportunity to the everpresent hawkers that wander the beach (along with when we were there one obvious group of local thieves).We found the shacks encroached too far onto the beach and walked further down the beach to get some peace.

 We enjoyed our stay. Managed a few ocean swims, downed a few Caprioskas at Cloud 9 , before turning our sights northwards again...

Love You Long Time?

We like Phnom Penh. The infrastructure creaks and there is an apparently widening gap between rich and poor (there goes another Lexus), but it has some charm and some style.

We had done most of things you are meant to do in PP. S21, the Russian Market, Happy Hour at the FCC (a few times), The Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum. As well we had found our way to some good eating places of varying degrees of sophistication, and to some of  the boutiques and coffee shops supplying the expat population (Sue's shopping report to follow in due course).

We just had a few things then to tick off on our last day before heading off to the beaches of Sihanoukville. After a late start  we set off to find a massage before coming home via the Central Market. Took a Tuk Tuk to Wat Phnom (possible song title?), and after a visit to the pagoda we went to find Seeing Hands massage, a charitable organisation (also in Vietnam) that employs blind massuers.

It had moved, but there were others around Wat Phnom . As we came to discover whilst these establishments also provided employment to those who may not otherwise be employed, they were a long way away from being charitable organisations. They were also far removed from the classy expat Spas we had toyed with visiting.

The first threshold we crossed was just altogether too seedy. Undeterred we continued down the street and settled on the "Orange Massage Steam and Souvenir Shop". As the title suggests an altogether much classier joint. After being warmly greeted by the male manager and his young female assistants we removed our shoes as motioned and took seats (as motioned) in the  air conditioned reception. Everyone then promptly disappeared. As we took in our surroundings we (quickly and simultaneously) formed the view that we were probably seated in the foyer of a Nock Shop and that the staff were currently out the back trying to decide exactly what services we should be offered to the gwaylo couple. In one motion we both arose and began to hurriedly put our shoes back on. Too late, the girls reappeared carrying bowls of water and towels. Confusion reigned all round. Why were the gwaylos leaving?? Sheepishly we settled back into our seats to await our fate.
First up there was foot washing. Quite pleasant though somewhat disconcertingly my footmaiden would from time to time stare up meaningfully into my eyes. I say meaningfully but the meaning was unclear. Sue's maiden also stared up at her. Later we decided the stares probably had different meanings. Then off to the Orange Room! Much to Sue's relief our massages  took place in the same room on adjoining mattresses. To our surprise the masssages were quite good and at $US6  for the hour pretty good value. Once again there were some disconcerting moments. Early on the girls at a crouch walked up our legs, starting at the ankles and ending at the upper thighs. This brought them face to face with us. I think this was the point where extras, if desired could have been  negotiated , face to face as it were. Given the circumstances no negotiations were entered into.  As I relaxed and lay studying the orange ceiling it occured to me that many before me had probably done the same.....or similar.

To top off the day on our way home after lunch at the central market we got caught 2 blocks from the hotel in a tropical downpour. We tried to wait it out but the rain was too persistent for us, and as it turned out, for the  stormwater drains as well. It was like being a kid again wading through the warm water. Feet got washed twice in one day......

S 21

The trip up the Mekong into Cambodia was a good one. Sunny skies and a flat widening river with space on the second of the two boats to stretch out and take in the scenery in the open air.

After the border it was apparent we were in a different country and not just because we had changed from a relatively modern craft to one that appeared to be left over from the war era.  The paddy fields and concentrated  population of  Mekong Vietnam gave way to forests and sparser  more rural communities. Cattle, not seen in our Vietnam travels,  abounded, many being lovingly washed at the river's edge.

The smiles and friendly waves we received were a taste of things to come from people who we have found in the main to be affable, placid and good humoured.

These characteristics make it hard to understand Cambodia's recent past. Perhaps it was an accepting nature that allowed the atrocities that occurred to take place? We will not be here long enough  to begin to work it out.

We visted S21 on our first full morning in Phnom Penh. An interesting way to  first introduce yourself to a city.  In classrooms which contain  rusting iron beds and shackles are large photos of some of the S21 victims as they were found, emaciated bloody and lifeless, seemingly on those same beds of torture.  Other rooms contained tiny cells and others instruments of torture. Many rooms contain  displays of the mugshots of the thousands of S21 detainees scrupuously  recorded by their jailors. In the last room are some of the skulls of victims whose days ended in the Killing Fields.

The experience is chilling. The evil  that was once there, palpable.

Fortunately there is more to Cambodia.

Funny Who You Bump Into

On our last day in Chau Doc bumped into two old mates at the market who we hadn't seen for ages. They insisted we take a photograph just to record the moment. From Chau Doc we took a boat (2 boats and a minibus actually) up the mighty Mekong to Phnom Penh,  Cambodia, which is a whole different story....

At the River.....

.....by  Groove Armada. This song came on the i-pod on random play as we cruised (aka chugged) down the Mekong River from Saigon. At last something to associate the song with that isn't a Telecom ad! 

We joined a little tour for a few days in the Mekong area. One of those things where you are packed into  various boats and buses and race around doing activities  punctuated by longish periods of mildly uncomfortable travel and questionable hotel accomodation. "Here you will enjoy the tropical fruits, then you will go to see the coconut candy being made and enjoy the coconut candy". Who would have guessed that the Mackintoshes toffee "coconut cream" was all along made to an old Vietnamese recipe?

All in all the experience was pretty good. The deltas areas around Ben Tre and My Tho, the towns of Vinh Long, Can Tho and Chau Doc, snakes, bees, honey, rice wine, dried ginger, fruits, local musicians, coconut candy,  fish,  eating frogs legs in a French colonial building, rice paper being made, rice flour mill, markets (floating and dry), pagodas, temples, fish farms, mosquitoes, humidity, sun, clouds , rain, local Beer, French wine, Vietnamese wine ( for the hell of it), floating hotel. Guides Den, then Tiger imparted their knowledge "or something like that" and we listened as best we could. We enjoyed the company of Boris and Josephine from France amongst others and left Vietnam the richer for having been there.

Waitangi Day

Our last full day in Saigon was 2 September, a national holiday. 2 September 1945 was the day Ho Chi Minh declared independance from France. Some people told us that the day was of great significance and the cause for much celebration. Others told us they were not communists and it meant nothing to them except that it was  a day off work. There was an official bash at the central roundabout that night but it seemed to us most people just loaded the family onto their scooter and drove around for the night. Might have been  celebrated more up North. Like Waitangi Day.....same, same.....

Same same but different

In Ho Chi Minh City now......or is it the set of Bladerunner? Arrived mid afternoon yesterday to pleasant conditions but by 4:30pm it was bucketing down. We ventured far enough from the hotel (Saigon Mini Hotel #1, Cong Quynh St) for dinner and to buy umbrellas. A hot and sunny day today and then again at 4:30pm the heavens opened and stayed open. Walking down the narrow streets in the rain past the street vendors and avoiding the masses of poncho wearing scooter riders is a very Ridley Scott moment. Was last here in 1993. A lot has changed but the essence of the city is the same. Visited the Presidential /Reunification Palace today where the tanks from the North crashed through the gates when the South fell in 1975. For some reason last time I didn't go in. Did the walk around today which was well worth it. Tomorrow will go to the War Remants Musuem which in 1993 was called the American War Crimes Musuem. Same but different.....

Singapore Slung

The culinary (alliteration) crusade continued in Little India with Chilli Crab and Mumbai Mutton at the Banana Leaf, before some shopping at the weird and wonderful Mustafas Department Store.

More crab and more curry with Miles at Dempsey Hill followed, ending up with an expat BBQ on our last night. NZ steak at that for a change. Hopped on the back of Miles' scooter for a quick trip down to the port to get the meat wholesale. Good to catch up with Gill as well who joined us on the last night from Lyon en route back to Akld. Photo is from the botanical gardens where walked off all the food. Miles took pity on us and hailed a cab halfway home as we melted in the humidity.....