S 21

The trip up the Mekong into Cambodia was a good one. Sunny skies and a flat widening river with space on the second of the two boats to stretch out and take in the scenery in the open air.

After the border it was apparent we were in a different country and not just because we had changed from a relatively modern craft to one that appeared to be left over from the war era.  The paddy fields and concentrated  population of  Mekong Vietnam gave way to forests and sparser  more rural communities. Cattle, not seen in our Vietnam travels,  abounded, many being lovingly washed at the river's edge.

The smiles and friendly waves we received were a taste of things to come from people who we have found in the main to be affable, placid and good humoured.

These characteristics make it hard to understand Cambodia's recent past. Perhaps it was an accepting nature that allowed the atrocities that occurred to take place? We will not be here long enough  to begin to work it out.

We visted S21 on our first full morning in Phnom Penh. An interesting way to  first introduce yourself to a city.  In classrooms which contain  rusting iron beds and shackles are large photos of some of the S21 victims as they were found, emaciated bloody and lifeless, seemingly on those same beds of torture.  Other rooms contained tiny cells and others instruments of torture. Many rooms contain  displays of the mugshots of the thousands of S21 detainees scrupuously  recorded by their jailors. In the last room are some of the skulls of victims whose days ended in the Killing Fields.

The experience is chilling. The evil  that was once there, palpable.

Fortunately there is more to Cambodia.