Love You Long Time?

We like Phnom Penh. The infrastructure creaks and there is an apparently widening gap between rich and poor (there goes another Lexus), but it has some charm and some style.

We had done most of things you are meant to do in PP. S21, the Russian Market, Happy Hour at the FCC (a few times), The Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum. As well we had found our way to some good eating places of varying degrees of sophistication, and to some of  the boutiques and coffee shops supplying the expat population (Sue's shopping report to follow in due course).

We just had a few things then to tick off on our last day before heading off to the beaches of Sihanoukville. After a late start  we set off to find a massage before coming home via the Central Market. Took a Tuk Tuk to Wat Phnom (possible song title?), and after a visit to the pagoda we went to find Seeing Hands massage, a charitable organisation (also in Vietnam) that employs blind massuers.

It had moved, but there were others around Wat Phnom . As we came to discover whilst these establishments also provided employment to those who may not otherwise be employed, they were a long way away from being charitable organisations. They were also far removed from the classy expat Spas we had toyed with visiting.

The first threshold we crossed was just altogether too seedy. Undeterred we continued down the street and settled on the "Orange Massage Steam and Souvenir Shop". As the title suggests an altogether much classier joint. After being warmly greeted by the male manager and his young female assistants we removed our shoes as motioned and took seats (as motioned) in the  air conditioned reception. Everyone then promptly disappeared. As we took in our surroundings we (quickly and simultaneously) formed the view that we were probably seated in the foyer of a Nock Shop and that the staff were currently out the back trying to decide exactly what services we should be offered to the gwaylo couple. In one motion we both arose and began to hurriedly put our shoes back on. Too late, the girls reappeared carrying bowls of water and towels. Confusion reigned all round. Why were the gwaylos leaving?? Sheepishly we settled back into our seats to await our fate.
First up there was foot washing. Quite pleasant though somewhat disconcertingly my footmaiden would from time to time stare up meaningfully into my eyes. I say meaningfully but the meaning was unclear. Sue's maiden also stared up at her. Later we decided the stares probably had different meanings. Then off to the Orange Room! Much to Sue's relief our massages  took place in the same room on adjoining mattresses. To our surprise the masssages were quite good and at $US6  for the hour pretty good value. Once again there were some disconcerting moments. Early on the girls at a crouch walked up our legs, starting at the ankles and ending at the upper thighs. This brought them face to face with us. I think this was the point where extras, if desired could have been  negotiated , face to face as it were. Given the circumstances no negotiations were entered into.  As I relaxed and lay studying the orange ceiling it occured to me that many before me had probably done the same.....or similar.

To top off the day on our way home after lunch at the central market we got caught 2 blocks from the hotel in a tropical downpour. We tried to wait it out but the rain was too persistent for us, and as it turned out, for the  stormwater drains as well. It was like being a kid again wading through the warm water. Feet got washed twice in one day......